Nepal – the country of Mt. Everest and Buddha

Nepal – the country of Mt. Everest and Buddha

The place where Buddha attained face

Posted by Ram Kumar Shrestha on August 7, 2011


As you know, every big mountain, being literally the navel of the Earth, eventually accumulates a lot of myths and legends, and becomes the axis of the foundation and the fantastic, yet very real stories. The perturbation vertical space bizarre twists of fate and age. For myths and legends of the local population is responsible, the heroes byley – different kinds of adventurers, mountaineers and other violent “surfers”.

It would be interesting to make something like a historical chronicle, for example, for each eight-, but it does take a lot for them to wander:) On Everest, I’ve tried to write , now part of Nanga Parbat, the more that this mountain will give good odds that the same Everest , and Kashmir – the place is not easy.

1. Nanga Parbat. Painting by Nicholas Roerich

Brief introduction: Nanga Parbat – the first ever eight-to which people have tried to ascend, the first-ever eight-, conquered by man alone. Prior to Everest climbing became popular in the environment, Nanga Parbat kept the championship in the number of dead climbers.

This mountain has witnessed the birth and development of Buddhism in the region, not far from it came the first image of the Buddha. Her foot was held Alexander of Macedon, the Muslim conquerors (ie, Tamerlane and his descendant Babur founded the Mughal dynasty), Sikh invaders. Nanga Parbat knows first hand what a big game of British and Russian empires. Roerich painted the mountain. In the end, this mountain long before the whole of Europe saw the swastika neinduistskuyu – at the top in the early 1930s, tried to climb the Nazis.

***

Once part of Afghanistan, part of the Pamirs, the whole of northern Pakistani-administered Kashmir and Ladakh were Buddhist. About Ladakh is known to many, but here’s what Baltistan (Gilgit Baltistan, now known as the northern part of Kashmir) had a different name – Tibet-i-Khurd, little is known. Translates it as a Small Tibet, the vast majority of people here and now speaks the language of the Baltic States – one of the western dialect of Tibetan language, but it is Muslim.

A little farther west, in the valleys of Dir and Swat in the XX century, excavated six years of Buddhist temples and villages of the world’s greatest Tibetologist Giuseppe Tucci (incidentally, the teacher Michelle Pesselya, which show the way to go in Pesselya forbidden kingdom Mustang). Tucci found in Swat as many Buddhist antiquities, that the excavation could not stop until now.

However, once from 2007 to 2009 he held down the valley of the Taliban, a Buddhist heritage was dealt a severe blow. The Taliban began destroying bodrenko “idols”, as in his time destroyed Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan. This is despite the fact that none of the Muslim invaders of the early period up to Tamerlane’s finger to these monuments were not touched. Yes, and “idols” are in fact older than Islam in a couple of hundred years.

In 326 BC through the Khyber Pass connecting Afghanistan with Pakistan today, in the kingdom of Gandhara Alexander of Macedon invaded. He went with his army across Kashmir, crossed the Indus and Jhelum and even went to the Ganges.

2. Jhelum River (also known as Gidaspov). Here Macedonian army defeated the Indians along the river lay our way to Nanga Parbat


For the first time in the history of Hinduism and Buddhism come into contact with Greece. Alexander remained in the region of about eighteen months, during which time there was an intensive cultural exchange between the Greeks and the local population, which has resulted in the Greco-Buddhism.

As is known, initially in Buddhism there was no image of the Buddha, they even avoided, indicating its presence footprints, an empty throne, a branch of the Bodhi tree or the “circle of scientists.” With the army of Alexander, who carried out his ideology to other nations in the region came to scientists, philosophers and artists, including painters and sculptors. On the territory of Kashmir came iconography of the Buddha – Greek sculptors to share our experience the Buddhist, the result was the first in the history of images and statues of the Buddha – his sculptures of the time are remarkably similar to the Greek gods and heroes.

3. Head of the Buddha era of Gandhara. Visible features of classical Greek. Photo found on the network

4. Sculpture of Gandhara era. Buddha in Greek robes. Photo found on the network

***

The official history of Nanga Parbat started in the XIX century. Actually, we can say from that moment began Nanga justify this to her later called “the mountain-killer.” In 1856 a German researcher Adolf Schlagintweit Asia was at the foot of the mountain and made it a description and drawings. This information came to Europe. Schlagintweit, the first European and the first German who saw this eight-soon parted with his life. A year later he made his way north to the area of ​​Kashgar and Dzungaria (now the land included in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region of China), where he was captured by Wali Khan, the Emir of Kashgar, on suspicion of spying. Lawyers and the jury did not exist – Schlagintweit beheaded.

5. Schlagintweit Brothers. Adolph, who discovered Nanga, in the center

The first attempt to climb Nanga Parbat has taken British climber Albert Frederick Mummery in 1895. This is generally the first attempt to climb the eight-at history. Satellites Mummery, including Maj. Charles Bruce (later one of the organizers of the first climbing expedition to Mount Everest), have decided to bypass the mountain along the foot.Mummery himself with a porter from the local up the slope of Nanga Parbat at a height of over six kilometers. Back they came back, and more of them have never been seen.

6. Albert Frederick Mummery. More like a scientist, a dreamer than a climber. Photo found on the network

Already mentioned Charles Bruce subsequently sent to the northwest of present-day Pakistan – in Chitral, where British interests at the border and the Russian Empire, on the edge of the “Great Game” in a remote mountainous region, inhabited by semi-savage tribes of the Pashtuns, and quite savage Hindu Kush mountain people, mad with Colonel Francis Yanghazbend loneliness.

This person, like family portraits, both on Friedrich Nietzsche and Nikita Mikhalkov – the only representative of the British Empire in the many hundreds of kilometers around, manage to keep under control the whole territory up to Nanga Parbat.

7. Yanghazbend in his youth. File photo by F. Yanghazbenda

It is called the father of a research Karakorum. He opened a new route through the Gobi desert at the age of 21 years. Because of the rumors about his death almost started a war between Britain and Russia. However, neither the game of polo or zapanibrata conversation with local rulers, nor the almost absolute power, as well as trips to the “white spots” Himalayas, Hindu Kush, Pamir and Karakoram can not get rid of boredom Yanghazbenda – he feared for his sanity.

8. Complicated character of Sir Francis. File photo by F. Yanghazbenda

Salvation becomes the philosophy of Leo Tolstoy – was he accidentally reads a book of Tolstoy Yanghazbend from cover to cover, and it radically changes his worldview – gradually colonel of the British colonialist Terry turns into a mystic and an Indian nationalist, ratuyuschego for India’s independence. However, in the process of evolution Yanghazbend due to manic fear of Russia then Viceroy of India Lord Curzon, gets the nod to the conquest of Tibet.

9. Yanghazbend in old age became a mystic. With a figure of Buddha in his hands. File photo by F. Yanghazbenda

In 1904, the army (in fact a large war party), led by Yanghazbenda invades Tibet through the British dependent principality of Sikkim. Yanghazbend captures Lhasa. The Dalai Lama XIII flees the country in Mongolia, the Tibetan government was forced to sign an agreement under which the power of the British Empire in Tibet increases substantially – London now has its permanent representative Lhasa. On the Tibetan campaign in Yanghazbenda takes about three years.

10. England squad is in Lhasa. File photo by F. Yanghazbenda

Subsequently, the Dalai Lama, “authorizes” the British ascent of Everest from Tibet. The organizers of these expeditions in the 20 years of the twentieth century, as are all the same, Charles and Frances Bruce Yanghazbend.

***

In the early 1930s, the right to publish letters and diaries of climbing Mummery bought by a German publisher. Just in those years in Germany in the wake of revenge for their defeat in World Hitler came to power. Germany is known to be ahead of the rest. Including in the conquest of large mountains. The slogan of Deutschland über alles – “Germany above all” get physical embodiment – in the German brewing circles, climbing the first ascent to the idea of ​​eight-, the flag is no longer a Hindu, but with the swastika should be set on top of one of the highest peaks in the world. This Nanga Parbat.

Again and again staring at Nanga Parbat, on top of her glittering, we felt like our hearts aflame with the desire to fight with fate. How well will return home, having won this huge mountain. And as an honor to put their lives to a great purpose, which will serve as an example for future generations in Germany. These words full of pathos in his book “The Germans on Nanga Parbat” climber Fritz Behtold (my translation).

But the eight-says “no” to Nazism. Despite the fact that the government has allocated huge funds climbers, and even the goods are delivered to the mountain of “Junkers”, expeditions die on the mountain one by one, taking the lives of the best German and Austrian climbers. It was in the 30s Nanga Parbat beginning to call “killer mountain” and “the mountain of destiny for Germany.”

11. German climbers killed Memorial at the foot of Nanga Parbat. Photo found on the network

***

In 1939 another expedition, consisting of officers, including the Wehrmacht, fails when trying to climb. Downstairs, the climbers fall into a broad and not very friendly embrace of the British authorities. For the Second World War began, and all German citizens, especially military, are controlled by the British territories, are automatically captured.Expedition members, including Peter Heinrich Harrer and Aufshnaytera (author of “Seven Years in Tibet”) interned and sent to a POW camp, located in Dehra Dun (northwest India), at the foot of the Himalayas.

12. Heinrich Harrer far right. Photo found on the network

Here Harrer acquainted with the German mountaineers, just caught in Sikkim after climbing seventhousander Tent Peak, including Ludwig Shmadererom. The latter is known in the Soviet mountaineering that made in the 30s first traverse of Mount Ushba that in the Caucasus. A plan of escape. Several attempts are unsuccessful, then Harrer Aufshnayteru and managed to escape across the border in India to Tibet. Thus, it starts from Nanga Parbat to the Tibetan Odyssey, a book which will become world famous. Harrer was destined to experience the most difficult hardships to enter the forbidden Lhasa, a Tibetan government in post and become a friend and mentor, the Dalai Lama XIV.

13. Harrer skate on the ice of the river Kichu in Tibet. Photo from archive H. Harrer

14. G. Harrer and the Dalai Lama. Photo found on the network

A year later, in the footsteps of Harrer and Ludwig Shmaderer runs. But this time it ends badly. “Look at my teeth – often say Shmaderer Harrer in the camp. – In these golden crowns local bandits ever kill me.” The words proved prophetic. The bandits who plunder the caravans were hunted to the Tibetan border, lured to the edge of the gorge Shmaderera under the pretext of selling products to further flight, face down and stoned to death. His team-mate can be saved, but he was forced to turn back and surrender to the Indian authorities.

***

In 1950, three Britons are taking an adventurous attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in winter! They are accompanied by a little-known at the time Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. This man is literally obsessed with climbing, his dream – Everest, but as the means to participate in expeditions, no, he runs a porter at foreign climbers in Tibet and Pakistan.

15. Tenzing Norgay. Photo found on the network

Tenzing refused to climb Nanga, he is experienced and knows what it’s all over. Winter climbing on big mountains is still not solved the problem, and only while such things were simply fantastic. However, the Nanga Parbat its still got it. The British decided to try his luck. But they understand that this is a game with death. They write a receipt Tenzing, taking with him all the responsibility and go on climbing. Two Britons die on the slopes, the third can come down. Only twenty-one years later, the Czechoslovak expedition climbers found on the mountain films and fragments of ice axes British. This is all that remains of them.

In one of the previous entries, I mentioned that the Indus valley at the foot of Nanga one of the most arid and arid places on Earth. That’s what I wrote about it Tenzing: This was worse than on the Tibetan Plateau – no trees, no rivers, no life, all around solid stony desert, which worked for me is very depressing.

A year later, Tenzing was in Lhasa – he accompanied the expedition of Giuseppe Tucci, above, who during his travels in Tibet took place on the edge of the desert more than 18 thousand kilometers! Here we met and Tenzing made the acquaintance of Heinrich Harrer. Wonderful way to weave the big mountains! That Tucci advised Tenzing to participate in mountaineering expeditions, not as a porter, and as a conductor, that is a full member of the expedition. Tenzing followed this advice, and in 1953 he and New Zealander Edmund Hillary became the first people to climb Everest.

16. Tenzing Norgay on the summit of Everest. Photo of Edmund Hillary

***

Time makes the new round, and a new loop adventures and tragedies of life strung on its top of Nanga Parbat. Half-brother of a German mountain climbers who perished on the mountain in 30 years, decided to commemorate his cousin to organize an expedition to the mountain and finally climb to the summit. Dr. Carl Maria Herligkoffer never been a mountain climber and has never had anything to do with the big mountains. But the idea of ​​climbing captured him so much that he literally crazy and managed to find funds, and world-class climbers, and became the leader of the expedition.

Nanga Parbat and fell. The victory brought Herligkofferu not joy, but were disappointed because they went up to the top not by his will and plan, but despite them. Obsession with Dr. Mountain was so strong that the ascent of his orders he regarded almost as a betrayal. It was an authoritarian leader, whose stubbornness cost much more than one climber. When Hermann Buhl Tyrolean decided to storm the summit, Herligkoffer, sitting down at base camp, gave the all clear – too long climbers have already worked on the mountain, and likely in its opinion, does not remain.

Buhl Herligkoffera sent to hell, and went upstairs. Last 1300 meters to the summit was alone – his partner was unable to continue climbing. However, Herman has overestimated his strength, on the descent, it became clear that the night before returning to the tent, he will not have time. By this time, ran out of food and drink, the only thing that kept Buhl force – pervitine pills. This, in fact, a drug (methamphetamine hydrochloride) in 50 years a stimulant.

Buhl was hoping that at night the moon will come and he will go down with its light but the moon blocked the mountainside. Darkness caught Bull in the sheer wall, where he could hardly find footing. Throughout the night he spent standing at a height of about eight miles! Fortunately, the weather was windless, was surprisingly warm, so Buhl cost “only” frost-bitten toes. In the camp he went down a miracle – the bottom has already thought he was dead, but Herligkoffer coldly greeted the winner. It has exclusive rights to coverage of the expedition in the press and almost all of the cream with success took off alone. And Herman Bulju, realize the dream of several generations of German mountaineers, the municipality of Vienna has allocated a room – still a great climber had nowhere to live, he Myka by friends and acquaintances.

In 1957 Bull went to the eight-Broad Peak in Pakistan. In the same year he was killed while climbing on a nearby peak Chogoliza.

17. Hermann Buhl, the first conquerors on Nanga Parbat. Photo found on the network

The obsession with “mountain-killer” Herligkoffera pushed further and further – it filled the new expedition, died on the mountain climbers new. One of the most controversial was the case with the brothers Messner in the early 70’s. The situation repeated itself almost exactly, when assault team was ready to go to the top, Herligkoffer ordered to descend. The eldest of the brothers – Reinhold Messner, one of the strongest climbers of the world, on the radio convinced Herligkoffera reconsider.

18. Charles was obsessed Herligkoffer Nanga Parbat. File photo R. Messner

The agreement was as follows: if in the morning before climbing weather report is unfavorable, Herligkoffer firing red, and then Reinhold alone will top the assault on one’s own account, but if the weather does not frighten, you will be issued a green rocket, and then brothers Messner will be used to assault in a bundle, and behind them come out one more assault deuce.

Subsequently, this loud tragedy go down in history, including under the title “The Red Rocket on Nanga Parbat.” The weather was good, but Herligkoffer issued a red rocket. As it turned out, green rockets in the expedition was not at all. Seeing the light, Reinhold one goes to the assault. His brother, Gunther, seeing a few hours, the weather’s all right, goes after her. He makes phenomenal march in the death zone and catches up with his brother at the top, on which they are raised together.

But here in Gunther, rising too quickly, starting altitude sickness. Go down the path of recovery is not possible because of the extremely difficult route. Ropes have no brothers – each was alone, so there is nothing to insure Reinhold’s brother on the way down. They decide to descend the back side of the mountain slope is steeper though, but it is shorter by a mile. The descent lasts three days. Brothers, so make the first ever traverse of Nanga. At the foot of the mountain Gunther Messner dies in an avalanche.

19. The top of Nanga Parbat by Diamirskoy Valley. It had to descend brothers Messner. Photo found on the web. Photographed from a plane

***

Early in the morning I pick out of the tent. Day promises to be wonderful – not a cloud in the sky. Spitting on the washing, we Ksjushej go to the other end of the valley to photograph the top of Nanga. Here, at 3500, the sun heats the earth’s surface, and barely raised a breeze. But upstairs is mad storm – he rages and fumes caught on top of a cloud.

20. Village Latobo and upper slopes of Nanga Parbat Rupal

21. Nanga Parbat – “Naked Mountain”. At the top of a steep slope so that the snow does not stick. On the last meters of climbers have to deal with climbing

I can not imagine that I must suffer and feel the person who is there. Messner brothers were raised by these rock teeth after months of work on the slope. As far as I know their route so far no one has repeated.

22. Vertex teeth

23. Nanga Parbat peak disappears in the fog

But what happened next?

***

Reinhold, trying to find her brother and suffering from severe hallucinations caused by a general depletion and length of stay in the zone of death, wanders aimlessly along the foot, turning into nothing and its already frostbitten toes. Miraculously, he finds the local peasants, who miraculously trafficked down, Reinhold miraculously manage to meet again with the expedition. This is followed by amputation of the toes, and months of rehabilitation, in addition, beginning a long legal battle with Herligkofferom because of the red rocket. Messner spat on the exclusive right to cover the expedition doctor and events laid out his version.

Brother’s death leads to a kind of obsession with Messner. Relatives begged him to quit climbing. But now he wants to settle scores with the mountain and decides to climb it alone. Time after time he is trying and does not go away – running away from Nanga Parbat, fleeing from his madness. Soon, however, Messner knows that drove themselves to a standstill. In addition, it was not very successful ascent of the eight-Manaslu in Nepal – partner Messner dies, and begin to pour in accusations that he goes to the top of the corpses. “Perhaps – some say – his brother Gunther died not in an avalanche at the base, possibly Reinhold threw it at the top of Nanga Parbat to satisfy their ambitions.”

This charge for many years a stone falls on the shoulders of Reinhold Messner. All this plus a big problem with the personal life make him decide: “Either I or the mountain.” In the early summer of 1978, Messner makes the first ever ascent of Mount Everest anoxic contrary to the predictions of the impossibility of such an ascent. It gives him confidence – two and a half months later he again at the foot of Nanga.

24. Messner during one attempt a solo ascent. Pay attention to your toes. File photo Messner

A year ago I was searching for meaning in life, is now taking life as it is, with all the deformities, insanity, irony. Sometimes, if you do not think about the questions, the answers come themselves. So let the questions begin to arise and torment me, I will not break your head and go on Nanga Parbat. There will be an answer … 

Solitude awaits us all. It is here, close by, it does not come from outside. I intuitively understand that I can get up to eight-alone, but when can get lonely work for me. I know that are able to reach the summit, as well as have the ability to withstand multi-day loads and climbing instinct, which allows you to choose the right path …

Messner was well aware of what is going on. Few have tried to face one on one with eight thousand. More precisely such attempts were only two. In 1929, the American Farmer attempted to climb Kanchenjunga alone, and in 1934 an Englishman Wilson decided to climb Everest. They both died.

Nanga Parbat was a mountain of destiny and in this case. She took Messner, and he was completely in her power – when Reinhold was in the middle of the slope, there was an earthquake, which cut his way back. He describes what he saw:

At five o’clock two minutes in the morning (this is the exact time) when I sat down and brewed tea in a tent, getting ready to leave, the mountain suddenly began to tremble.Seconds later he heard a terrifying roar, which came from everywhere at once. I looked outside and saw that the whole slope started to move and headed down. Closer to the foot of the mountain snow masses formed a giant avalanche width of several kilometers, which is literally flooded Diamirskuyu valley. A fragment of ice on which I was raised during the previous day, ceased to exist, and now go back the same route was impossible. (Above and below the excerpts – from books Messner, my translation.)

Here is a single route of ascent and descent:

25. Notice the rectangle on the right side of the photo. File photo R. Messner

26. That’s the same rectangle. Picture taken from the foot through a telephoto lens. Point between the two black lines – Reinhold Messner. Comparing the two photos, one can visualize the size of mountains. File photo R. Messner

Messner – one of the few climbers who are able to pass a simple layman the complexity of the climb and the feelings experienced by the climber while climbing the slope.Especially alone. Simple unpretentious phrase, he describes the brink of insanity, which is. It is interesting that he is able to perfectly capture what is happening, he realizes that he hallucinates, and at the same time experiencing hallucinations as reality. In medicine, is the extent of mental disorder, even when the doctor can talk with the patient as a normal person, but the therapy has to resort to the second, the patient, “I”.

I was lying prostrate and suddenly realize that the next little girl. As well, now do not have to put up a tent one, because it can be done together. <…> The girl watches as I tramp down the snow, I think that she would be hot if it is to move a lot. Although he put the tent, still very good, I am not alone. Half an hour later you’re done. Tent to throw a sleeping bag – for the shade, placed inside the pads and haul bag. <…> 

– We have already climbed high – say the little girl. 
– Tomorrow you get to the top of you – she says. 
– Only if good weather holds. 
– The weather is good, until you begin to descend. 
It seems she was right: the wind almost died down, and despite the cloudy weather, very warm.

27. Messner to a halt at the height of 7400 meters. At the bottom of the slope and valley Diamirsky Nagaton. File photo R. Messner

Breaks through the clouds a ray of sunshine, and it seems that everything comes to life. The clouds begin to move, and heard strange sounds from everywhere: the hissing and then a whistle. Again, hallucinations? I’m much easier to admit that talking to myself or with my shadow than the surrounding consider unrealistic. But here comes a girl again, and the conversation continues. How strange! I can only feel that in front of me who is sitting, but can not touch girls, not to look at her at point blank range.Sometimes it is very close – so that just hurts me, but it is worth to turn – and anyone. This feeling is truly maddening.

A description of what was at the top, I think, is deleted – read the book:)

28. At the top of Nanga Parbat (8126 meters). Avtosemki. File photo R. Messner

29.

Again, while making a new round, and a new loop adventures and tragedies of life strung on their top of Nanga Parbat. Accusations that Messner gave his brother near the summit, managed to take only a few years ago. Günther Messner’s remains found near the local mountain people of the place where, according to Reinhold, avalanche. One of these mountain people – our guide Samandar Khan.

30. Samandar Khan against the background of Nanga Parbat. Photos made ​​after the pass

I really wanted to go to Nanga Parbat. The Himalayas are interesting in themselves, but the stories Yanghazbenda, Tucci, Tenzing Norgeya, Messner incredibly attracted to!Such odyssey move the world forward, not forced to sit still and look for adventure and for his fifth point. Book of this kind of experience is worth at least to some extent their own painful experience. But I never dreamed that I hear the continuation of the legend, so to speak, first hand.

Samandar said that, finding the remains, he first made aware of the discovery in Germany. Messner did not have to wait for a few days and was already at the foot of Nanga Parbat. He identified the remains of Gunther on the mountain boots and a few things. The doctor-a pathologist on the nature of bone lesions determined that the victim fell under a landslide, or under an avalanche. At the end of the track, we stayed at Samandar, he showed the photos, climbing magazines that write about it.

31. The exhumation of the remains. To the right sits P. Messner. Back in the red waistcoat our guide Samandar Khan. Beside him are two Pakistanis – his relatives.They also got to know. File photo Samandar Khan

***

Before breakfast Ksenia said she needed to wash my hair. Heat the water and full of boiling water litrovkoy go to the creek. Here I am in a free boat, alone mix hot and cold water and pour Ksusha down. Local women working in the areas, look at this action, open-mouthed. Not only does not cover the face of Xenia, because it also shows all around hair. According to Muslim orders so you can not do.

After eating, we collect tents and leave. Today we must get to the end of the Rupal valley and climb to an altitude of 4000 meters. Weather still holding out, but judging by the clouds “smoky” type, in the evening sky will tighten.

32. Ahead of the end of the Rupal Valley

Interestingly, the mountains bordering the valley, seem large, but compared to the Nanga they look like is not very much. However, with eight thousand all will seem small. For example, the glacier which we crossed the day before, just huge to move it, it took about forty minutes, if not more.

33. Yesterday’s Glacier

34. And this is how it looks from above, from a height of more than seven miles. File photo R. Messner. The expedition of Dr. Herligkoffera

While the heat can go barefoot, even though the skin and feet used to it because of the large weight in the back rather quickly tired. Samandar Khan, looking at me, sometimes shaking his head.

35.

36. From there we came from. On the right bank are our porters

37. The last caravan donkeys with firewood. Above the trees will not be

Soon, as promised, the weather begins to deteriorate. We climb higher and higher, dyhalki not enough, and the air becomes so cold that has quickly become a mujahid, so as not to chill the throat.

38.

In the last willow grove Samandar cuts us with a stick Ksjushej. Although we do not use them, take with you just in case. When we leave the edge of the glacier, reaching a peak of Laila, the weather worsens finally – the low clouds begin rolling in the snow, ice and wind so that we put on jackets.

39. Your obedient servant, gives the oak

We go on the side wall of the glacier, there has hardly. Some time ago, came the collapse, scree still fresh, and there is no trail. Something like balancing on the side – to go to seventy meters down to the glacier as something not desirable. Sometimes we climb up into little pockets where you can see well filled with trails that go to dizzying heights.This is cattle, but that’s what? It is so cold that cows and sheep do not survive. Soon all becomes clear – find zuo – a cross between a cow yakom. Apparently, they eat grass, red, and they transcend the cold.

40.

Before getting to the dark parking places – the base camp Mazeno. Quickly, as far as shortness of breath and dizzy (4,050 feet all the same!), Put the tent. Praise be to Allah, and those who have laid down a wall here in the wind! Hiding behind her, We stretch canvas top, and I was horrified to look at Rahim, who goes to the river for water. Pour snow pellets, the temperature near zero, and even wind up in this wind does not want to go. Washing dishes Rahim also booked. At this time we agree, not resist. But undertake to prepare dinner. Ksenia commands that where and how to pour and cook, cut fresh cabbage – make nourishing soup, how it can be nourishing cabbage, noodles and canned a pair. The meat at this height will not cook.

Samandar the porters take out bundles of a green and make a point of her stew with lots of butter. Here and vitamins, and fat. Greens can not recognize, but excellent stew eaten with bread priberezhennymi pre-chapati. In any case, get more crackers and cheese.

41. Dinners

Another unexpected gift. Someone held here earlier prepared a small bundle of firewood. Goodness knows how much time had to spend to find firewood in the surrounding bare clones. Enough of them to sit for half an hour at a small fire, when it was quite dark. Samandar asked when I replace the sandals to boots. When I say that just before the pass, he again shook his head and suddenly grabbed me by the ankle. “You have warm feet!” – He exclaimed in surprise. Damn, of course, warm! If I’m cold, I’ll get dressed and obuyus – I’m not a masochist to endure the cold. Just warm enough yet.

Soon disperse to their tents. At this point in the action starts taking an unexpected factor that I did not consider in preparing for the trip. There were a few mistakes, they significantly influenced the outcome of the event, but more on that later.

42. I enjoy a piece of chapati

To be continued …

Index entries from this trip:
Record 1. Pakistan, about which so much lie
Record 2. Pakistan Technology
Record 3. Islamabad and fees in the mountain
Record 4. Pakistan – a country of net
Record 5. Nightmare cashmere and Kashmir
Record 6. Worlds Apart
Record 7. Lost Generation
Record 8. The place where Buddha attained his face. This entry
Record 9. New forms of life and death
Record 10. When you do not want to be an astronaut
Record 11. intertemporal
Record 12. Prigimalayskoe Prikarakorume
Record 13. Children’s Games
Record 14. Flooding and sunstroke
Record 15. End of the Eighth Wonder of the World
Record 16. Islam
Record 17. Turquoise death
Record 18. Resort on the border with Afghanistan
Record 19. Last

@Se boy

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